Multi-Pitch Climbing - Achensee

Guffert

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Difficulty

1 - 7a

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Number of routes

🞱

Sea Level

1015 - 2195 m

GPS Position

All real-time data of the infrastructures can be found in the fullscreen view of the interactive map

Description

Interesting multi-pitch climbing routes on the 2,195 metres high Guffert. Well-bolted climbs on high-quality limestone with distinctive erosion features.

Nearly 200 metres high and one kilometre wide, the Guffert offers climbers some of the best limestone climbing areas with the finest erosion structures. This isolated rock massif, with its main and western peaks, is separated from the actual Rofan mountain range by the wide Steinberg basin, although topographically it is still part of the Rofan. Climbers can enjoy interesting routes on good rock, mostly secured with bolts.

Infos

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Rock

Limestone

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Public transport

Take the regional bus (line 4080 towards Achenkirch, change to line 7801 to Steinberg am Rofan) and get off at the stop "Steinberg a. R. Abzw Waldhäusl". The inn Gasthof Waldhäusl is located nearby.

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Journey

Turn off the Achensee main road (B181) in Achenkirch in the direction of Steinberg am Rofan. Follow the L221 Steinberg state road for just under 9km until you reach Steinberg am Rofan. The Waldhäusl car park is signposted on the left-hand side of the road just after the village sign.

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Parking

Car park Waldhäusl in Steinberg am Rofan (paid parking)

Gallery

Guffert West summit - South wall left

Infos

🞂

Exposure

👙

Best season

May - Oct

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Number of routes

🔹

Routes

1 Da Capo

6a+ [5a]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6a+ [5a]

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Route length

170 m

🄴

Count rope length

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Exposure

Description

Great alpine sport climbing on some of the best rocks. Closed, vertical slabs with ledges predominate. Note: Exit from the summit book at the last belay station of Violenta and via its last pitch onto the summit ridge.

Infos

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Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

40 m

5a+

20 m

40 m

6a+

35 m

6a+

🛬

Equipment

11 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 50m twin rope.

2 Violenta

6c+ [5c]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6c+ [5c]

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Route length

130 m

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Count rope length

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Exposure

Description

Magnificent and steep. Onsight and endurance test piece.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

40 m

6c+

35 m

30 m

25 m

6a+

🛬

Equipment

14 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 60m single rope.

3 Molli Oggi

6a+ [5b]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6a+ [5b]

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Route length

50 m

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Count rope length

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Exposure

Description

Beautiful, steep "easy alternative" to the difficult second pitch of "Georgio Morales". However, this alternative route is also "clean" and serious. Joins the "Violenta" route.

Infos

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Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

25 m

6a+

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Descent

To descend, rappel down the route "Violenta" with 60m single rope.

4 Georgio Morales

6a [5b]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6a [5b]

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Route length

70 m

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Count rope length

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Exposure

Description

Dedicated to those who oppose bolts. The route is "clean" and should stay that way. The first pitch is an overhanging crack intersection in best, water-eroded rock. The belay is a section with a fixed steel cable and a box with a summit book.

Infos

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Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

30 m

40 m

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Descent

From the exit, traverse approx. 30 metres to the left to the penultimate "Violenta" belay.

5 Alte Südverschneidung

5b [4c]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

5b [4c]

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Route length

120 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Rewarding classic through the large intersection. Beautiful, rough rock. The route has been renovated, therefore 8 express quickdraws are sufficient.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

45 m

30 m

45 m

5a+

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Equipment

8 express quickdraws, helmet

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Descent

The route is not suitable for rappelling. Instead, either traverse 50 metres to the left to rappel down the “Violenta” route with a 60-metre single rope directly to the start, or traverse 30 metres to the right to rappel down the “Siziliano” route with a 50-metre double rope.

6 Siziliano

6c+ [5c]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6c+ [5c]

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Route length

175 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Very beautiful and varied route. A difficult section on a smooth slab which requires you to smear is followed by short sections on very sharp erosion structures, with a mini-roof and an easier water groove in between.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

55 m

6b+

40 m

20 m

6c+

20 m

6c+

🛬

Equipment

9 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 60m double rope.

7 Con Brio

6a+ [5a]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6a+ [5a]

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Route length

200 m

🄴

Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Very enjoyable alpine sport climbing on fantastically structured slabs and water grooves.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

50 m

30 m

6a+

35 m

30 m

25 m

6a+

🛬

Equipment

6 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the routes with 60m double rope.

8 Tranquillo

7a [6a]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

7a [6a]

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Route length

170 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Varied alpine route with passages of great rock. Within the pitches, the climber is often confronted with an abrupt change from steep click-and-move sport climbing on slab passages to challenging trad climbing.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

50 m

40 m

30 m

35 m

6b+

15 m

6a+

🛬

Equipment

8 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 60m twin rope.

9 Con Sforza

7a [5c]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

7a [5c]

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Route length

175 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

A beautiful and challenging tour awaits you, with parts resembling the Dolomites and an impressive 4 metre roof. In the third section you will have to quickly negotiate tiny ledges in all shapes and directions.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

25 m

6b+

25 m

40 m

30 m

6a+

25 m

6b+

🛬

Equipment

12 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 60m double rope.

Guffert West summit - South wall right

Infos

🞂

Exposure

👙

Best season

May - Oct

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Number of routes

🔹

Routes

10 Grazioso

Route details

🞽

Difficulty

🔹

Route length

253 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Continuous, equally difficult and steep slab climbing in perfect rock for those with good foot technique. This is the only route that leads directly up to the western summit of the Guffert.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

55 m

45 m

6b+

55 m

6a+

40 m

1-2

58 m

6c+

🛬

Equipment

14 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

From the summit, descend the route in a westerly direction for 70 metres with a 60m twin rope and traverse via the ledge to the penultimate belay.

11 Presto

6b+ [5c]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6b+ [5c]

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Route length

191 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

This is a varied and enjoyable alpine tour on typical high-quality Guffert rock. The route offers steep wall passages, various erosion structures and even an overhanging start with a crack. As a special highlight, an exposed and photogenic slab traverse on large, round pockets awaits climbers.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

48 m

30 m

6b+

30 m

6a+

48 m

6b+

35 m

🛬

Equipment

8 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

To descend, rappel down the route with 50m twin rope.

Guffert main summit - Southwest wall

Infos

🞂

Exposure

👙

Best season

May - Oct

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Number of routes

🔹

Routes

1 Musica d'Aqua

6b [4a]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6b [4a]

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Route length

230 m

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Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Pleasure tour between the main peaks - south-west face. Along a water gully with foot-deep structures, the route follows a natural direct line through an impressive roof zone to the Guffert main summit.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

50 m

35 m

25 m

40 m

20 m

60 m

🛬

Equipment

6 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

From the summit cross, rappel down the route "Südkante" for 50 metres and traverse on a grassy ledge to the penultimate belay. Then rappel down the route with a 60m double rope.

Guffert main summit - South wall

Infos

🞂

Exposure

👙

Best season

May - Oct

🍫

Number of routes

🔹

Routes

1 Südkante

5b [1]

Route details

2 Josef Nieberl-Ged.-Weg

7a [6a+]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

7a [6a+]

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Route length

130 m

🄴

Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Continuously difficult route on the 130-metre high and very exposed south-east pillar.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

45 m

35 m

6a+

50 m

🛬

Equipment

14 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

Rappel down the route with 50m twin rope or continue climbing via the "Dülferführe" and back via the normal route.

Guffert - North wall

Infos

🞂

Exposure

👙

Best season

May - Oct

🍫

Number of routes

🔹

Routes

1 Rätische Zeichen

6c+ [6b]

Route details

🞽

Difficulty [obligatory]

6c+ [6b]

🔹

Route length

200 m

🄴

Count rope length

🞂

Exposure

Description

Outstanding, extremely steep, raw and beautiful north face climbing on a 200-metre high, vertical slab of reef limestone. Excellent rock throughout, very water- eroded and rough.

Infos

🍫

Route overview

Rope

Lenght

Level

30 m

25 m

6b+

30 m

40 m

6b+

35 m

6c+

40 m

6c+

🛬

Equipment

14 express quickdraws, helmet

🛬

Descent

Rappel down the route to descend.